Santiago: a portrait of Mérida's neighbourhoods

The Santiago neighbourhood is a portrait of Mérida’s history. Discover its story and sights, and stroll through nearby neighbourhoods.

Mérida’s neighbourhoods are the cradle of thousands of stories and traditions. The Santiago neighbourhood, in Mérida, Yucatán, is one of them.

Traditional and nostalgic, this is one of the city’s oldest areas, west and north of the Plaza Grande. Its Indigenous past and its importance during the henequen industry — being an obligatory stop between Mérida and Sisal — forced the area to grow quickly.

A historic, ancient church

In colonial times, parishes were divided by caste: the Cathedral for Spaniards or whites; the Santo Nombre de Jesús and Santa Lucía for Black people; and Santiago for the neighbourhood’s Indigenous people and the Spaniards’ servants.

To give you an idea of its age, the Santiago church was founded in 1637. It was once grand; today, few traces of the original structure remain, though a modest sanctuary with a baroque statue of Santiago survives, along with the dated inscription above the entrance. The church front and main nave, held up by buttresses (not necessarily flying), were built in the 19th century.

The history of the Santiago neighbourhood

When was Santiago founded? In 1542, like the city itself.

Since then it has gone through different transformations and is known for keeping a family, quiet atmosphere.

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350 years ago it was the area set aside for Indigenous people and artisans. A few metres from the central square, over time it became one of the first areas to expand, quickly turning into an important shopping district for residents of nearby areas such as San Sebastián or Ermita.

Also, in the early 20th century, Santiago and Calle 59 were the main formal entrance to Mérida, after Porfirio Díaz built the Centenario Zoo and the Parque de La Paz.

The German district

In the 20th century, Santiago was famous for hosting the German district and the Quinta Los Alemanes. Chronicles of the time say that the Santiago neighbourhood was the best place to live in Mérida before the Paseo de Montejo was built.

The Germans owned three or four large hardware stores that traded mainly with the haciendas — a prolific, growing business.

Art was also a hallmark. In 1914, the neighbourhood got its first cinema, La Frontera; the building also had a hotel, on the west side of the park.

Santiago was also home to the famous Salón theatre, built in 1915 on the north side of the park. Later called Apolo, it staged zarzuelas, operettas and films. In 1922 it became Cinema Rivoli, and today it is Cines Hollywood.

Santiago’s openness to foreigners

Today, for foreigners, Santiago is one of the most desirable neighbourhoods in the centre, with many restored colonial houses. These properties are usually bought by Americans and Canadians who want to live somewhere safe and friendly.

Some properties have also been renovated for commercial use. Alongside design shops, you’re likely to find excellent restaurants.

People born in the Santiago neighbourhood

The cradle of wrestlers, clergy, politicians, artists and journalists, some famous figures born here are Manuel Cepeda Peraza, governor of Yucatán in the 1860s, and the composer Guadalupe Trigo.

Also living in the neighbourhood were Crescencio Carrillo y Ancona, bishop of Yucatán; the painter Juan Gamboa Guzmán; and the educator, writer and reporter Rodolfo Menéndez de la Peña.

Jacinto Canek also lived in Santiago — the great Maya leader who rebelled against the Spanish in 1761 and was executed in the public square as a warning to the Indigenous population. Francisco Uc, another local, met the same fate; he was active in the 19th-century Caste War.

What to do in the Santiago neighbourhood

Santiago is a perfect place to walk, explore and get lost in its streets. Opposite the church there is a market selling fruit and vegetables, meats and a wide selection of flowers. There are also plenty of eateries and shops.

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A great attraction is the children’s park, with a beautiful fountain surrounded by shady trees and a large concrete area used for skating and as a dance floor — because on Tuesday nights, the Santiago park is transformed to the rhythm of live music.

Las Remembranzas Musicales are a classic of Tuesday nights in Santiago. It began more than four decades ago and is a public event much loved by residents and a tourist attraction for many foreigners.

The music starts at 8:30 p.m. and brings together people of all ages who dance for hours to cha-cha, mambo, salsa and other Latin styles.

Architectural heritage is another of Santiago’s strengths. Landmarks include two large schools, one public and one private, built during the Porfiriato in the early 20th century: the Nicolás Bravo primary school and the American School, known for their beautiful neoclassical style.

And if you like old buildings, be sure to photograph the Ministry of Health, one of the neighbourhood’s finest properties. Finally, visit the Centenario Zoo and the Natural History Museum — great for a family day.

10 quirks and curiosities of the neighbourhood

Pay attention! It is said that when Carlota of Belgium visited Mérida, signposts were made marking each legua. Many were placed in Santiago, every 4 kilometres. Some still survive on certain streets.
Did you know the park has a bust of General Santos Degollado Sánchez? He lived from 1811 to 1861 and was Interior Minister in Benito Juárez’s cabinet.
A refreshing stroll. On Calle 72 you’ll find the building where the soft-drink maker Sidra Pino operated; this drink was very popular at Yucatecan tables last century.
More than 40 years of music. Las Remembranzas Musicales, on Tuesday nights in Santiago, have run since 1984. Since then, Banda el Recuerdo has provided the music for the dance nights.
A tree with history. At the former Montejo building, now the Remate de Montejo, there was an oak tree. Legend says Salvador Alvarado used to hang the thieves of the day there.
Myth or reality? The neighbourhood is the setting for several stories. One says a horse belonging to the rider who tried to assassinate governor Lucas de Gálvez in 1792 was buried in a house courtyard.
A name from the conquest. Santiago owes its name to Saint James, Apostle of the Spains. The conquerors named it so after taking the city.
A buried heart. Did you know a heart is buried in the Santiago church? It belongs to Fray Luis de Piña y Mazo, one of Yucatán’s first bishops, who died in 1795. A stone plaque announces it.
Religion and rebellion. The old Santiago church had an open chapel. A stone plaque was placed to mark the site of the city’s first Mass. It adds that the record was destroyed in 1916 during the Caste War.
Circo Teatro Yucateco. Older meridanos may remember it — a favourite venue for circus shows, plays and even bullfights.

Mérida’s other neighbourhoods

Santa Lucía

Known for its church, dating from 1620, this area is near Santiago.

It stands out for its energy and top-tier restaurants. Opposite the church are many venues serving the best of Yucatecan and international cuisine — Rosa Sur 32°, Apoala, La Recova, Peruano, Bryan’s Burger Bar.

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If you visit, don’t miss the sweetness of Ki’XOCOLATL, one of the city’s most important artisan chocolate shops. And take a photo of the giant confidente chairs in the park. If you want good music, every Thursday at 9:00 p.m. you can treat your ears to the best Yucatecan trova musicians.

Finally, Sundays are for the tianguis market. If you want to buy crafts, Santa Lucía is a good place, with pieces in different materials made by Yucatecan artisans.

Santa Ana

Another neighbourhood, near Santiago and the centre, is Santa Ana. Known for its great calm, it holds a beautiful church built in 1729. You can visit it during the day, though at night it looks lovely with its old façade lit up. The interior is very simple. A curious fact: its old bell has the best sound in all of Mérida.

Next to the church you’ll find the Santa Ana Market — perfect for tasting exquisite snacks and Yucatecan dishes. Santa Ana is also popular for its art galleries such as Nahualli, SoHo Galleries and La Sala, plus several cultural centres and cafés.

Mejorada

Mejorada was once an important centre for Mérida’s trade.

Here you can visit a 17th-century temple and former convent, now home to the School of Architecture of the Autonomous University of Yucatán. The city’s first railway rail was laid in its park, in 1870. You can also see the Cuartel de Dragones, now a school.

Mejorada is a neighbourhood with several museums. If you’re visiting, discover the Montes Molina House Museum and the Museum of Yucatecan Song. Head towards the old train station and admire the imposing building of the Higher School of Arts of Yucatán.

Ready to visit the Santiago neighbourhood? Don’t miss this part of Mérida, and explore some of its closest neighbourhoods too. What are you waiting for?

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